It is fitting that Lake Como is the end of my Italian smorgasbord. The crisp air, clear lake, and austere mountains make the perfect antidote to a whirlwind surfeit of ancient ruins and expansive history. There comes a point where Borromini and Tintoretto and Gaius Aurelius all merge together into an indistinguishable tangle of fallen Doric columns and frayed frescoes. Here, gazing at snow-capped Grigna Mountain as it salutes the cloudless sky, I can sip on the bracing ether of nature as an antidote to the hearty fare of culture I have been treated to on the rest of my tour. Too much of anything can turn it bland and I am feeling corpulent on the menu of architecture and art I have been gorging on from Rome to Venezia. After such a feast, it is time for a restorative which the unruffled landscape of Lake Como provides.
Ideally, I would like to take in a new destination by slowly letting it absorb into my pores, savoring its distinctive flavor, and mulling over its compositional herbs and spices. Time is ever my enemy, however, and with such a lot of dishes to taste, I have had to guzzle and run so often. Unfortunately, this is typical of plenty of my travel life: there is so much to explore and take in that consumption triumphs over erudition.
I think to myself, “If I don’t see it now, I’ll never have another chance!”
I go galumphing off to another site, frenetically snapping at it from every angle, like a terrier overcome by the sight of an enormous raw steak. With so much information crammed into my head, though, it becomes impossible for me to decipher what the destination was truly about. More importantly I fail to see how I was transformed by having seen, heard, and tasted the place. That is why being alone and still at the end of my journeys has been pivotal for me. At the conclusion of each trip, however long, I always seek out a place where I can be absolutely motionless, surrounded by the hush of serenity, free to slowly chew the cud. I think about the stories whose substance, like dense chocolate, have stayed with me. I ponder the characters I have met and what they were trying to tell me underneath the words they spoke. I pore over my scribblings of historical factoids and ephemera to glean any nuggets of wisdom from the past.
Mostly, though, I sit still for hour after hour, thinking of nothing in particular while I let the stewpot of my recent adventures boil away until something valuable bubbles to the surface. Now that I have satiated on Roman lore, Renaissance mythology, and Baroque trivia, it is the perfect moment for me to let everything simmer while I recline quietly on a boat in the middle of Lake Como. The nippy breeze wafts the scent of pines towards me and sends out an imperceptible ripple on the glassy surface of the lake. Perhaps, as I practice the Italian pastime of dolce far niente, the gust will riffle through my memories and open an undiscovered recollection. There is no sense of hurry here, so I will happily wait, letting the various shades of blue drift me to a space where I can contentedly digest, assimilate my Italian experiences, and prepare for my next adventure.
TRAVEL NOTE:
The villas dotting the shores of Lake Como have long been admired for their grandeur and elegance. Though many are privately maintained some, like the Villa Carlotta in the town of Tremezzo, open their interiors to visitors. Originally owned by the Duchess of Saxe-Meiningen, the 18th century mansion has resplendent gardens of camellias, azaleas, and statuary.
Hungry for more Italian? Check out our Bespoke Traveler Journal: At The Table for delectable recipes.
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Relaxing on a boat on Lake Como sounds perfect to me, I’m glad that you were able to share these wonderful photos with us, along with your thoughts about the area.
I’m delighted that you enjoyed the photos and the post! I still think back fondly on my tranquil time in Lake Como.
Beautiful writing. I love the line about the dog and the steak. Still have that tendency myself, after years of trying to curb it.
Thank you. I’ve been practicing for awhile now this act of slow travel, but there’s always that voice in my head which wants me to not miss out. It’s a continuous battle against greediness.
A dream vacation destination. By the sea with rich cultural and artistic grand architecture, blissfully amazing!
It is indeed a dream destination that I was fortunate enough to experience!
Atreyee, love this line, which very effectively describes the idea of slow travel: “Ideally, I would like to take in a new destination by slowly letting it absorb into my pores, savoring its distinctive flavor, and mulling over its compositional herbs and spices.”
On a not-slow-travel experience some years ago, my girlfriends and I had a stop-over at Lake Como. It’s a pity that it was raining quite hard that day so I’d love to return. In recent days, my husband and I watched a documentary about Italy’s economic challenges titled Love it or Leave it, and the film-makers stopped at Lake Como. The documentary offered an insightful look at the Italy we don’t often think of as we instead envision the country’s glorious architecture, culture and food. You might also enjoy it: http://www.italyloveitorleave.it/home/?lang=en
Tricia, thanks for the link to the documentary. I shall have to check it out! The trailer for it looks interesting and funny. I have heard similar stories from young people in France as well. They all want to move because it is so hard to make a life and find jobs there too. As with any country, Italy is much more than what travelers go to see. What were your impressions of the recent Italy trip you took?
I heard so many good think about Lake Como. This certainly in my list….
Nina, Lake Como is one of the most gorgeous landscapes in Italy and such a wonderful spot for relaxation and reflection. Also, you do not have to own an expensive villa there to enjoy the beauty of it! I hope you will get to see it for yourself soon. Thanks for stopping by and reading!
This looks like a lovely place and I hope I can visit one day. I know what you mean about not having time to soak up everything while traveling. I wish we all had endless time to wander aimlessly with camera in hand, soaking up the atmosphere and culture. 🙂
Lake Como is such a beautiful spot and the small towns around the lake never felt overcrowded. It was perfect for contemplation. I hope you will get to visit there someday. As to having endless time to wander – what a dream that would be indeed! 😀
Yes, wouldn’t it? I’ll keep dreaming of that day!
Looks beautiful and peaceful. Don’t you wish you had a lifetime to visit each place. I’ve been living in London for over two years and i still feel like a tourist. Time is the enemy of every traveler, but at least we get glimpses. I’ll take that over missing out entirely.
I absolutely agree. I would rather have a little time experiencing these places than not be able to travel at all! But, I think the best way to really get close to a place is the way you are doing it: by moving there for some time so that you transition from tourist to local. London is so full of sights and experiences that I imagine, like New York, it would take a very long time before one felt like a local there!
At first we signed up just for two years. I was thrilled when that was extended. I’ve barely seen London, and then there’s the rest of England to explore. Could take a lifetime
Agreed, TB! It could take a lifetime….
It sounds idyllic, and in fact, I know that it is. I’ve reclined with that exact same landscape. Granted we had a small boy in tow so our experience was not quite so relaxed. He preferred it on the hydrofoils on Garda, zipping about the place.
😀 Lake Como is such a still place, isn’t it? Though I can’t imagine what it must have been like trying to relax with a youngster beside the lake!