This is what Ali Baba felt like when the door opened to his fabulous cave. Gilded and scrolled arches lean towards me in an ecclesiastic embrace. Between each vaulted curve garnet, sapphire, and topaz colored mosaic tiles gleam from sumptuously ornate frames. Overhead, wrought iron curlicued chandeliers dangle like giant earrings as brilliant white lamps glisten between snow colored walls. I wonder if I am dreaming until a rush of Muscovite commuters overtake me in the elaborate hallway. Most of the time when I have to use a subway system I am happy if I find well-lit sterile walls, signs for navigating the spider web of lines, and trains that arrive within ten minutes of schedule. Yet, ten stories (one hundred feet) underground Moscow I am transfixed by another world. This must be what it feels like to walk through a museum on the way to work, I marvel to myself. Heedless of the morning rush, I goggle eagerly at the treasure trove I have just discovered.
Moscow’s metro was one of Stalin’s pet projects, an engineering promise to Russians of a radiant future. For this reason, the subway is laid out in the shape of a star, with a central circular line around the city and radial lines running out from its perimeter to outlying towns. It is also why the panels, sculptures, and emblems are replete with socialist motifs. My attention, however, is drawn to the engineering spectacle before me: Neo-Classical columns stretch to infinity; Art Deco designs of sunbursts and geometric shapes garnish every recess; dazzling works of marble, steel, and glass bring an ethereal luminescence to this nether realm.
“I am learning that there’s more to Moscow below ground than I had ever considered possible.”
My initial glimpse of this subterranean world of beauty compels me to go hunting for more hidden treasures at other stations.
What I find does not disappoint me. At stops along the red Sokolnicheskaya, and green Zamoskvoretskaya lines I uncover masterpieces worthy of my time in a museum. I am especially enraptured by the display of vibrant color, as if the artists who wrought these painted tiles wanted to wrestle nature into the city’s bowels. Dancing sunflowers cast a cheerful glow down to me from the ceiling, rose-tinted apples at an orchard beckon invitingly, and ruby caped knights emerge victorious from onion domed gold cathedrals. These paintings also awaken my interest in Russia’s fertile history prior to Stalin and I spend hours wandering from scene to scene, oblivious of the whoosh of trains and round robin of travelers.
Ordinarily transportation systems aren’t known for anything other than their efficiency (or lack thereof), but inside this Russian subway I have unearthed a wonderful truth: history is an ever-present and evolving story.
“I never know when I might encounter its narrative because just as art is not always held hostage inside the sterile walls of a museum, the past is not always within the confines of a book.”
I descended into Moscow’s metro system intent only on transporting myself from point A to point B, never dreaming I would stumble upon a cavern of cultural jewels. My train ride revealed to me that I can engage with history in the unlikeliest of places. Where will I find my next chamber of riches? It could be in a café, down an alleyway, or just as I turn the corner. I don’t know, but I will never descend into another metro system without a skip of my heart beat at the sparkling possibilities that might catch my eye. Although I can’t gleefully carry away my loot like Ali Baba, I am excited to return to the Moscow metro for another perusal of its hidden bonanza. And wherever I travel to next, I will be sure to keep my head on a swivel so that I don’t miss the entrance to another secret cave of wealth!
TRAVEL NOTE:
The Park Pobedy station on the Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya line is the third deepest train station in the world. At a depth of 275.6 feet, it takes passengers approximately three minutes to ride the escalator from the surface to the train departure platform.
Is there something ordinary you discovered that turned out to be a travel treasure? Is there a metro system that you admire?
Bespoke Traveler 
Hello!!! So nice that you have liked our awesome metro! Now it’s just huge and some new stations are also beautiful :)))
wow! shows how little of the world we travel am in awe of your writing 🙂
🙂 Thank you very much for your sweet words. There is so much to see in this world, it really is amazing!
miss the metro station! 🙂 🙂
Gorgeous photographs! The architecture and details in their subway system looks stunning! Definitely hope to see this with my eyes one day 🙂
It’s a wonderful part of Moscow and not to be missed. Thanks for stopping by!
Amazing! It only make want to go to Moscow even more. The city is so rich in history!
Great photos 😀
Thank you! Thankfully the city has worked hard to restore many of its historic buildings that were destroyed in the past.
You’re welcome!! 🙂
Yess, same happened here in Munich… but sadly not much was left after the WWII 😦 90% of Munich was destroyed at that time.
But of course, there are still some amazing original buildings around the city 😀
I’ve heard so much about these, AG, and you have me desperate to see for myself! Janaline did a few posts on the monasteries in Moscow which looked stunning too. Who can I bribe to take me to Moscow? 🙂
🙂 Not sure Jo! But, there must be someone out there who you could convince to take you to Moscow.
WOW!!!!
And all for free?? And none of it harmed by graffiti and thug art? Oh, be still my heart, what an unbelievable find! The descriptions, the pictures–all pure magic. I would never get anywhere on time if I lived in Moscow. Surely I’d be forever apologizing to folks I was to meet that I once again got caught up with the art in the tunnels. Surely, they’d understand. 🙂
😀 You nailed it! We would never be able to take the metro in Moscow and make it into the office on time.
Moscow is such a beautiful capital and your photos show it! It is crazy to think I have such similar photos!! Definitely a place to visit😊
🙂 Thank you. Moscow has a lot of great place to see indeed.
If Russia’s metro looks as beautiful as the photos, how much more are the museums above the ground! Wishing to get there someday.
Moscow has so many above ground museums, you might need to plan a very long stay there to see them all! One we really enjoyed visiting was the Tretyakov Gallery which displays many of Russia’s talented artists from Andrei Rublev to Kandinsky.
Such an amazing find. Not just your average metro!
Absolutely not Sue! Have you ever seen any other metros that haven’t been what you expected?
Not off the top of my head. Nothing like this anyway!
This is so cool! I feel like Moscow must have a million hidden gems, waiting to be discovered.
It certainly does! Hidden among the tall intimidating multi-storied buildings are colorful churches, museums featuring intriguing Russian artists, and even summer gardens.
Beautiful writing and beautiful photographs!
I’m so disappointed I never got to see the subway in Moscow when I visited – I was travelling on a tour and all our transport was provided in a chauffeured van. Oh well, I will just have to go back some day to have a look!
You should definitely plan a return trip to see the underground stations of Moscow! What places did your tour stop at?
On our tour we spent three days in Moscow and then 3 days in St Petersburg. In Moscow we visited the Kremlin, St Basil’s and Red Square, had lunch in the GUM and went to the Tretyakov gallery. It was awesome (but exhausting! – so much to see…)
I wrote about it here, if you’re interested:
http://travelplacebo.wordpress.com/2014/10/19/a-tale-of-two-cities/
Looking forward to reading about your tour! The Tretyakov Gallery is such a beautiful place to examine Russian art.
Interesting text and nice photos! Thanks for sharing. Bye. K