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Trekking the Great Wall

Great-Wall-viewTime’s arrow points in one direction, unlike the “Great Wall” which snakes its way up the northern hills, twisting right then coiling left before doubling back on itself. In the manner of an acrobat’s cleverly writhing ribbon there always seems to be another segment of it after the next highest point. On either side of the wall vast stretches of a green-and-brown panorama disclose an abandoned landscape atypical to the skyscraper swarm of Beijing, China. I have entered the ancient barrier at its most popular point in Badaling (八達嶺) where the tour buses and souvenir shops attract selfie-stick touting crowds. My mission is to trek as far as I can upon this section of the fortification to gain an understanding of what countless soldiers and builders sacrificed upon this juggernaut.

Great-Wall-upI notice first the uneven steepness of the stairs, how they sag in the middle, bubble at the ends. Often they rise in quick gradated treads, other moments they leap in precipitous strides that cover the distance from toe to thigh. The architects, rather than subduing the terrain, had to contrive with it. They shimmied up the backbone of ridges, compensated for irregular contours, creating a barricade that folds and buckles atop bedrock. It belies the idea of impenetrability I had about the “Great Divider.” Walking up the rutted bulwark I sense it groaning under the weight of the ages, subsiding beneath my footfalls.

Great-Wall-miniThe second thing I notice is the wreckage wrought upon this partition. Broken parapets reveal windows through which the ghosts of marauders advance. Turret rooftops have been substituted by cloudy firmament. Entire rampart portions have disintegrated generating isthmuses that yawn below. Almost nothing remains of the original wall constructed during Qin Shi Huang’s (秦始皇) reign and even much of the Ming dynasty carriageway underwent major restoration in the 1950s. Over its long history this frontier fortress has been destroyed and rebuilt on innumerable occasions. Harboring from the shrill wind inside a damaged watchtower, I realize The Great Wall was neither immune to erosion nor impregnable to outsiders.

Great-Wall-graffitiTurning the corner I find an enclosure blanketed by inscriptions, many recent scrawls, others aged and faded, barely discernible. Most of them are modern love proclamations and name tags etched into stone for eternity by unknowable visitors. In the era of social media celebrities I am surprised by the popularity of graffiti. Is it the human equivalent of marking territory or is it an innate need in us to achieve immortality even by mutilating residues of our past? I trace over the indecipherable scratches, attempting to read them by touch. I imagine a lonely guard huddled against the bone seeping chill passing the hours by hacking his moniker into the brick. I wonder if a conscripted laborer managed to scribble a message before bitter winter and endless exertion took his life.

Great-Wall-etchI am not prone to disclosing phone numbers in bathroom stalls or jotting communiques on bridge posts. I rarely sign guest books, yet I too wish to write words that outlast time. This vein that runs within me shares the same root as the ruthless emperors who ordered this enclosure: ambition. Rulers with their decrees, youths with their knives, I with my borrowed hotel pen, we all crave the elixir of fame. This desire to be remembered, to establish ourselves beyond our ephemeral lives, to know that a part of us exists when we will have no knowledge of it combats nature’s law. To die in oblivion is the fate of multitudes — should it evoke horror, melancholy, or despair? Is a fulfilled existence incomplete if it is anonymous or if it is forgotten after a generation?

Great-Wall-pavilionI once almost missed an art installation by Andy Goldsworthy; what I supposed was a crack running through the De Young Museum’s entrance in San Francisco was actually “Drawn Stone,” a sculpted piece evoking fault lines. It is also a prophecy about the fate of solid objects, an epistle to earth’s future. Goldsworthy specializes in arrangements fashioned out of organic materials, such as ice or foliage, that disappear after a given period into their landscape. I marvel at the bravery of architects similar to Goldsworthy who are willing to resist mortal inclination, to dissolve into the universal. The impermanence of their compositions strengthens them. In their transience they become elegiac tributes to entropy.

Great-Wall-towerThere is profound paradox in a barricade meant to thwart invaders now hosting legions of foreigners; there is irony in a partition designed to withhold change crumbling under the burden of its notoriety. A combination of tourism and weathering will continue to erode this 8,850 kilometer (5,500 mile) structure. Meanwhile the Great Wall represents a tug of war between our yearnings for perpetuity and the reality of thermodynamics. In its bucolic deterioration there is logical lyricism. In the juxtaposition of its archaic workmanship alongside modern vendors peddling tchotchkes abides bizarre realism. In the ebb and flow of humanity’s endeavors to take only memories but leave behind indestructible markers rides the never-ending fundamental song.


TRAVEL NOTE:

Extending from Dandong (丹東) in the Liaoning province (辽宁) to Lop Nur in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, the Great Wall of China contains three major mountain passes. Juyongguan (居庸关), fifty kilometers (31 miles) from Beijing, in the Changping district (昌平區) still boasts the remnants of a Buddhist temple erected in 1342. Referred to as the Cloud Platform (居庸關雲臺), this rectangular edifice’s interior marble walls and ceiling teem with stunning Bas-relief gargoyles, mythical beasts, heavenly kings, demons, and sacred Sanskrit mantras.


How do you feel about graffiti? Have you seen any that have fascinated you? 

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37 replies »

  1. A fascinating post about a fascinating place. I saw a news item on CNN a year or two ago saying that the Chinese government had installed some special walls in one of the guard towers where people could leave messages if they want to. I’m not sure if that idea caught on or not.

    • Thank you. Yes, there are dedicated wall sections for those who itch to write a message while on a visit because portions of the original wall were eroding due to excessive graffiti. I am unsure whether this helps the situation or not. “Love locks” are also very popular and there is another section of the wall dedicated to these.

  2. You’ve woven a tale here of one of the marvels of human creation, both with your words and with your photos. Incredible diversity of shots and with your words it is easier to understand both the history and in a sense the vastness of the Great Wall. One of the few times in my life where I went to a place with very high expectations, and my expectations were exceeded. The deterioration over time just adds to its story.

    • Thank you. Wow, interesting to hear you say that visiting the Great Wall exceeded your expectations! I find that true of very few places, one of which is Machu Picchu. It was beyond spectacular and I realized no videos or photographs ever do it enough justice. Strangely, I had no expectations of what the Great Wall would be like. Hiking part of it ended up being one of my most memorable adventures.

  3. I don’t really like graffiti but then I quite like the bridges in Paris with love locks on them and the post it notes in Juliette’s balcony entrance area in Verona perhaps it’s because they are easy to remove when necessary where writing or carving into a wall is permanent.
    I loved your pictures and words to bring your visit alive, why were people trying to get into China, for work or war?

  4. Wow – very interesting. While I certainly have seen pictures of the Great Wall, never have I been so aware of the unpredictable zigzags, ups and downs, and decay. As for graffiti, I generally do not like it, at least not modern graffiti. Perhaps I’m more curious about anyone who lived 100+ years ago, so I find old graffiti rather fascinating. But it’s funny. The Chinese characters don’t look like graffiti to me. I can’t read them, so they seem more like designs or petroglyphs.

    • 🙂 Yes, so much of it depends on our perspective doesn’t it? I always think how hilarious it will be when in a thousand years someone finds our 21st century graffiti to be of beauty and epic value. Also, I have to agree with you about the Chinese characters — to me they also look more like art than letters even when written on paper. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the subject!

  5. Thank you for a beautifully written piece on a place I dream of going for so many of the reasons you describe. Isn’t it amazing how our human nature longs for the immortal, even if it is in leaving our mark on something we view as outlasting ourselves.

  6. Wonderful post and thoughts on this incredible site along with your terrific images. It was an emotional experience for me the first moment I saw the wall. I love your Andy Goldsworthy reference, too. I love coming across his work in SF.

    • Thank you, Jane. I love coming along Goldsworthy’s work anywhere! It’s so subtle yet powerful and being able to recognize it apart from its natural surroundings is such a treat.

  7. “There is profound paradox in a barricade meant to thwart invaders now hosting legions of foreigners;” I especially love this observation. I also really appreciate how you bring all these places to life for us by sharing your emotions. I will likely never see all these beautiful destinations, but through your honesty in words and images, I am there. Thanks, you two.

  8. Great photos. Interesting to see it up close and person. Seems like a place all good travelers should see once in their life. Graffiti is the last thing I would have expected to see on it for some reason. I think some of the most interesting I have seen is Petroglyphs in Utah @ https://bulldogtravels.com/2016/01/27/utah-petroglyphs-wordless-wednesday/ . Also travelers used guns to shoot their names in the walls of Capitol Reef State Park. (Which reminds me I never did a post on it and it is a really cool park.)

    • Thanks. I think it very interesting the various places modern graffiti shows up: Great Wall, Roman ruins, pyramids etc. I have never heard of using a gun for graffiti! That seems to take it to a whole new level.

  9. The human equivalent of marking territory, for sure. So funny, I was just there a month ago, but went to the Mutianyu section. Amazing that your photos don’t show the swarms of people I’ve heard that Badaling attracts. The Mutianyu section also had a designated tower for grafitti. Another synchronicity: I also have been working on tilt-shifting my photos of the Wall. However, I was there on a sunny, colorless day, so mine don’t work nearly as well as yours.

  10. Irony aplenty and no easy target for Jo’s Monday walk, is it? 🙂 Definitely a challenge, and one I’d love to undertake. I especially love that misty temple, and the image of you with your hotel pen. 🙂
    I was reading Paulo Coelho’s ‘Brida’ on the plane back from Poland. Interesting musings on the nature of human life.

    • 🙂 Ha, that would certainly make for one very long Monday for you. I would love to see what interesting details you would pick upon such a walk. As for Coelho’s “Brida,” I have not read it yet, but you have piqued my interest. He is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to the nature of humans.

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