Skip to content

Coveting Copenhagen

Envy comes easily looking down at the slick, shingled roof tops of Copenhagen, Denmark. They are so desirable in their delicately toned, film processed hues of slate, apricot, and mint. I imagine only good things are allowed to occur under those eaves. Coffee cups never break; morning toast is always warmly buttered; potted plants thrive next to minimalist furniture. All is calmness and decorum.

I yearn to have a pied-à-terre in Nørrebro to which I can saunter after late night drinks. Or an artist’s studio in Nyhavn from whose dormer I can wax lyrical about my muse: the canal. Surely I would be a better novelist if I had a regular café along Nordre Frihavnsgade to haunt? I’m certain I could achieve more if I were contemplating sunsets from my dock-side desk on Kongens Nytorv. After all, it worked wonders for Hans Christian Andersen.

Instead, I must be contented with glimpses into hygge accommodations from my lofty perch. I spy Panton chandeliers and Jacobsen egg chairs. My envy grows as I peer at sleek steel appliances and curvaceous wooden rails. I covet walls painted platinum and charming salon tableaux. Every penthouse vista Copenhagen divulges feeds my fever. Each chimney pot and tiled square fuels my inner comparison demon — the one that’s always eager to convince me life would be better if I were doing things differently.     

Climbing the spiral steeple of the Church of our Savior, I have to remind myself, “you don’t know what it’s like to live under those roofs, you can’t tell what goes on behind those paned windows.” Nose pressed against the grill, surveying the candy-colored townhomes shouldering one another, I shout back at envy, “Stop trying to trap me inside your false, constrictive metaphors!”

Still, when I read the plaque about Copenhagen’s contribution to the Danish Golden Age, when a passing tour guide praises the city’s commitment to urban design, when I peruse an article claiming this is the happiest place on earth, envy rears up to whisper at me, “See what you’re missing? You should be part of this. When will it be your turn?” I sigh in defeat. Resentment is triumphant. It has managed to demoralize me amidst a Danish utopia. I stop exploring. I don’t want to see Copenhagen’s rooftops anymore.

In an older neighborhood, I slip into a garden nestled between mansions. I rest underneath a tree by a lake. No one else is there. The light sparkles off the water for my amusement. The poisonous murk clears. I see the situation clearly. I don’t need lodgings by the canal. I don’t require quarters in a canary terraced house, under a slate roof, or along the Strøget. I am part of Copenhagen, I realize. I have tasted its delights. I’ve watched it from above, delved into its interiors, climbed its heights. I’m immersed in hygge at this moment. The petty monster has no response. I smirk. “It’s my turn now,” I say.


TRAVEL NOTE:

Copenhagen is a bicyclist’s dream city. It caters to their safety, welfare, and comfort through the use of bikeways, traffic preference in city planning, and integration into the public transport service. To experience the Danish capital like a native, rent a bicycle or sign up for a bike tour.


Has a city or an object ever made you envious? What is your remedy for getting out of the comparison trap?


Discover more from Bespoke Traveler

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

133 replies »

  1. The first time I heard about hygge was probably three years ago and I’ve been fascinated by it ever since. Some say the concept is similar with Thailand’s sabai-sabai, to what extent I have yet to find out. To me hygge seems to be the key to why the Danish are like what they are today like how the Law of Jante has shaped the way the Norwegians (and the Danish) see their lives.

    • The concept of hygge has certainly taken over the western world. Hygge is a Danish word used to describe a particular feeling of comfort, coziness, and contentedness. It certainly is a large part of their culture, especially in the winter time. I think, more recently, the word is often used to describe objects or sell a certain lifestyle, which is not the intention of the original concept. I’m intrigued by the Thai sabai-sabai as I have not heard of it before.

  2. love it … beautifully written … obviously an enchanting place … i was hooked on it as a destination from reading Girl With The Dragon Tattoo … a place to visit, to drink in, and to write at while there …
    yes, your turn to celebrate … who knows what goes on behind those doors … the glimpse you see … laughter, happiness, contentment, creativity .. who knows how long that moment lasts … does it continue day to day or is it but a spec in time …

    • Thank you. It’s being able to enjoy those little simple moments that really defines Danish culture and is the concept behind their ‘hyyge’, a feeling of contentedness in the daily rituals of life. I don’t remember Copenhagen being featured in “Girl With the Dragon Tattoo,” but I’ve been wanting to visit this city ever since reading H.C. Andersen.

      • Whoops … it was Stockholm where Girl was set …. arghhh … late night brain fade … but your words are so evocative … write on

      • Copenhagen was home to Bjarke Ingles of BIG … bjarke ingles group …danish architect who designed the Danish maritime museum in the old dry dock next to hamlet’s castle … He moved to New York and designed the via apartments … on Manhattan west side … an apartment block that looked like an open-sided pyramid with a courtyard in the heart to be enjoyed by everyone.
        Also improved manhattans flood resistance after hurricane sandy. His thought processes are signposts to anyone … in business or in personal life … film was called big … something .. I forget second word. Ahh, big time … that was the film.

  3. I can’t believe I haven’t been yet. When I lived in Europe I felt there was always time but never made it there. It looks softer than Oslo and sweeter than Stockholm.

    • At some point you’ll have to return to Europe to give Copenhagen a visit. It is definitely much cuter than Stockholm. While I enjoy Stockholm’s greenery and impeccable cleanliness, I found Copenhagen to be such a fairy-tale setting.

  4. It’s so easy to envy the life we think others live in these places that seem perfect at the time! I loved reading about your Copenhagen envy – I went there many years ago and it was the first step in me falling in love with Scandinavia – a place I’d had no desire to visit before then.

    • Ah, Scandinavia turned out to be such a beautiful solace for me. I too was reluctant to visit because I thought I had “done” Europe, but each city I have been exploring in this northern region has been so beautifully unique and inspiring.

  5. All sorts of memories spurred. I visited it one time for a few days only, as a journalist of sorts, accompanying high school students, and yet I hadn’t even known about Christiania before landing in it.They told us that the Freetown Christiania had its representative in the city council and that (s)he saw to it that the law was passed stating that the grids that cover the canal holes on the bicycle lanes were to be changed from vertical to horizontal. This has stuck to mind the most. And a certain Irish writer with whom I corresponded for years after (pre-internet) but never saw him again. A little sigh.

    I like it how you bring this home.

    • I love when the mention of a city stirs such particular memories of being there. The Danes are extremely fond of their bicycling lifestyle, so I’m not surprised that a member of the city council was thinking about the ergonomics of bicycle lane grates.

  6. I suffer this feeling too often for my own contentment. I always imagine life in X city being so perfect and productive and stimulating … but by now I’ve learned it not the place but the person (unfortunately, still me – haha)!

  7. Ahh, colorful row houses is a feast to the eyes. I reminisced sumptuous lunches across the river in one of your photos, indeed a beautiful city to visit.

  8. What challenges me is the realization that I will, in all likelihood, never visit and experience all the destinations in this world that I would like to see. This knowledge could be very depressing and destructive. I try to make the best of where I find myself, and get to know nearby places well. It does not always work, but I have found happiness with what is directly before me.

    • We each have our inner envy demons. I know I am very fortunate to even be able to visit so many places, never mind live in them. So, taking it all in perspective there should be nothing to envy, but that is human nature: it so often is not very logical. I love that you explore your own city and its local delights. So often there are treasures right where we live that we ignore for the larger, more romantic idea of seeing far-off destinations. You are fortunate that Colorado has stunning landscapes and endless wildlife which can satisfy your thirst for adventure.

      • I am grateful to be living in Colorado with its natural beauty and wildlife. Even if I tried, I could never explore everything it has to offer in my lifetime. I still hope to be able to get in a little travel here and there! 🙂
        Best wishes,
        Tanja

  9. Yes, there is Vienna the city which made me envious, because I haven’t had the chance to be born there. I have no remedy, I just come back in that city everytime I have the chance! 😉 Regarding Denmark, I also believe there is the heaven for every byciclist, firstly because of their cycle superhighways. Cătălin

    • My condolences that you missed out on being Viennese born. 😁 However, you have had the good fortune to visit multiple times, so that should ease the pain. I have yet to explore Vienna, but am hoping it will happen at some point.

  10. It’s been 15+ years since I went to Copenhagen, and I never really thought about returning… but I’m almost changing my mind!

Leave a reply to Bama Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Shop

Buy My Books

Interpret

Publications

Browse

Editors’ Pick