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Keeping Time in Valley of Fire

Valley-Fire-sandstone-BTLong, long ago in a time far, far away, I used to be a geology student. I learned about the tectonic forces of our planet, of the way its seething inner core spewed out unguent minerals, of the possibilities inherent in ongoing cycles of erosion and deposition. I practiced identifying crystal structures and the atomic composition of polymerized silicates. While outdoors I would annoy friends and family by shouting, “igneous dike!” “graphite schist!” or “look at that exposed cross-bedding beauty!”

Valley-fire-color-BTAt Valley of Fire I return to those half-forgotten lessons. They don’t seem as distant when I gaze upon the one-hundred-fifty million year old solidified sand dunes undulating through the basin. These are no mere rocks to be glumly passed by while hunting for richer treasures. They have come alive, laying out past aeons for me to read. This is where an inland sea once transformed into a sandy desert before petrifying into multi-colored rock. Foundations shifted, became exposed by plate movement. Now they undergo abrasion. 

Valley-Fire-view-BTHere are the stratifications evident from centuries of weathering. Here are overturned cretaceous layers indicating the leading edge of a thrust sheet. Further along my hike are faults composed of deformation bands and sheared joints. I perceive time wrinkled in the processes — epochs squished into stratum the width of a quarter, the entire era of dinosaurs a comma in the swirl of lithological storytelling. I feel my life span slipping away, dissolving into the gradations of petrography. Instead of sensing that a handful of seconds had occurred between the counting of hours, I see centuries float by in the blink of an eye.  

Valley-Fire-petro-BTHuman history is evident at Valley of Fire too: in the Ancestral Pueblo petroglyphs, the remnants of film sets, the scrawled declaration that “Bob Was Here.” Our species is intent upon leaving a trace…somehow…anyhow. We can’t bear the thought of vanishing into the future, or a cosmos unaware of our presence, or a timeline in which we never mattered. What ‘progress’? We’re eternally in a whirlwind to be remembered…somehow…anyhow…repeatedly searching to connect, to be relevant…now and ad infinitum.

Valley-of-Fire-BT-SceneThis apparently ageless terrain is clever at hiding its metamorphoses. But, if I listen carefully, the earth’s skeleton tells me tales of our mutual inexorable looped journey. In the shimmering heat a vision appears: the rippling hills and valleys quiver at the edge of fluidity, recalling the primordial sea from which they were born while pronouncing a destiny in which they’ll return to their aquatic past. Time halts and flashes forward in sweeping luminescent waves. Amidst shifting light the variegated topography croons of time that was, of time that is, of time yet to come. 

Valley-Fire-history-BTThose long ago geology lessons echo against the fiery bedrock, reminding me of movement on a different scale to mine — of changes imperceptible yet vast. I step out of time’s bonds to gain a foothold upon the immense formation of experience.


TRAVEL NOTE:

While Valley of Fire is a feast for the eyes, it can also be an olfactory adventure. One of the oldest plants on our planet, creosote bushes carpet the desert during springtime, giving off a musky scent after rainfall. When visiting, please remember that off-trail travel causes damage to the ecosystem.


What’s the most surprising aspect of a desert environment to you? Let me know in the comments below. Also if you’ve visited any petroglyph sites I’d love to find out what the experience was like for you.

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111 replies »

  1. Such stunning photos! I was there a year and a half ago – I would have liked to spend more time there. I saw wonderful rock formations….but I have never been able to visualize the geology in the way you describe here. My partner and I have a running joke, which is that we wish we had a pocket geologist. On our road trips he would sit in the back seat of the car, available for questions, otherwise quiet. On walks, we would put him in our pocket. We have so many questions. 🙂 I’ve seen petroglyphs in a few places in Arizona, pretty mysterious, when you wonder about the person who made the drawing….

  2. I miss the American West. I majored in Archaeology in the SW so I’m right there with you. Geology was a loved subject and I collected rocks for a time (before I moved abroad). One of my highlights in Austria was the Natural History Museum and staring/drooling at the massive rock collection.

    Your writing does it justice. xo

    • Ah, a fellow rock lover! I love discovering kindred geology spirits. 🤗 I hadn’t heard about Austria’s NHM but now so want to visit to also drool over the rock collection. Thanks so much for reading and your lovely comment.

  3. Ha! I know what it is like to tap into those beloved studies in earlier years when inspired by the beauty like that of The Valley of Fire. Long ago, in a place far, far away, I was Sociology student. Every time I happen across a new culture on my travels as magnificent as your Valley of Fire, I am taken right back to those hallowed halls of learning where I only dreamed of meeting such wonderful people.

    Mother nature is my favorite artist and she has created something truly magnificent here at the Valley of Fire. Your images showcasing that beauty and words promising a musky scent are beckoning me to visit here.

    • Your sociology background explains so much about how you see the world as you sail from community to community. For a long time I wondered if I’d wasted my education since I never professionally practiced geology outside of school, but I’ve come to appreciate the insight it gives me in my travels. And, I completely agree with you…nature is so very inspiring to me in every way!

  4. I smiled when I read your first line. 🙂 As a Physics major, I wondered how could anyone like Geology (or biology). More recently, after visiting some stunning locations around the world, I’ve been wondering why didn’t I take Geology as a minor. I’ve clearly missed out on a lot. 😦 Your visuals are haunting and your words mirror the complex beauty of these locations. Thank you for taking me along and peppering your post with technical jargon. I enjoyed it!

    • 😁 Since physics is one of the building blocks of geology, you’re only a hop, skip, and jump away from mastering the study of rocks. Happy to hear you enjoyed the jargon despite your previous dislike of geology (and biology). 🙃 Cheers to our previous lives as science students!

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