Long, long ago in a time far, far away, I used to be a geology student. I learned about the tectonic forces of our planet, of the way its seething inner core spewed out unguent minerals, of the possibilities inherent in ongoing cycles of erosion and deposition. I practiced identifying crystal structures and the atomic composition of polymerized silicates. While outdoors I would annoy friends and family by shouting, “igneous dike!” “graphite schist!” or “look at that exposed cross-bedding beauty!”
At Valley of Fire I return to those half-forgotten lessons. They don’t seem as distant when I gaze upon the one-hundred-fifty million year old solidified sand dunes undulating through the basin. These are no mere rocks to be glumly passed by while hunting for richer treasures. They have come alive, laying out past aeons for me to read. This is where an inland sea once transformed into a sandy desert before petrifying into multi-colored rock. Foundations shifted, became exposed by plate movement. Now they undergo abrasion.
Here are the stratifications evident from centuries of weathering. Here are overturned cretaceous layers indicating the leading edge of a thrust sheet. Further along my hike are faults composed of deformation bands and sheared joints. I perceive time wrinkled in the processes — epochs squished into stratum the width of a quarter, the entire era of dinosaurs a comma in the swirl of lithological storytelling. I feel my life span slipping away, dissolving into the gradations of petrography. Instead of sensing that a handful of seconds had occurred between the counting of hours, I see centuries float by in the blink of an eye.
Human history is evident at Valley of Fire too: in the Ancestral Pueblo petroglyphs, the remnants of film sets, the scrawled declaration that “Bob Was Here.” Our species is intent upon leaving a trace…somehow…anyhow. We can’t bear the thought of vanishing into the future, or a cosmos unaware of our presence, or a timeline in which we never mattered. What ‘progress’? We’re eternally in a whirlwind to be remembered…somehow…anyhow…repeatedly searching to connect, to be relevant…now and ad infinitum.
This apparently ageless terrain is clever at hiding its metamorphoses. But, if I listen carefully, the earth’s skeleton tells me tales of our mutual inexorable looped journey. In the shimmering heat a vision appears: the rippling hills and valleys quiver at the edge of fluidity, recalling the primordial sea from which they were born while pronouncing a destiny in which they’ll return to their aquatic past. Time halts and flashes forward in sweeping luminescent waves. Amidst shifting light the variegated topography croons of time that was, of time that is, of time yet to come.
Those long ago geology lessons echo against the fiery bedrock, reminding me of movement on a different scale to mine — of changes imperceptible yet vast. I step out of time’s bonds to gain a foothold upon the immense formation of experience.
While Valley of Fire is a feast for the eyes, it can also be an olfactory adventure. One of the oldest plants on our planet, creosote bushes carpet the desert during springtime, giving off a musky scent after rainfall. When visiting, please remember that off-trail travel causes damage to the ecosystem.
What’s the most surprising aspect of a desert environment to you? Let me know in the comments below. Also if you’ve visited any petroglyph sites I’d love to find out what the experience was like for you.
It must be quite an experience to visit that place with your background. 🙂
Hello! It really was a delight to get to indulge in my passion for rocks at this park!
I can imagine. Which just makes me think: you see other things when you visit such a place, not just the different minerals, but the history: how this hill was slowly pushed up then turned right. I’m sure you can see the earth’s movements in your head.
This is true! I fully appreciate that I am able to experience the landscape in a different way and to think about history in geologic terms thanks to my schooling.
I liked geology in High school and I was fortunate to see some very impressive rock formations near Lake Naïvasha, in Kenya. Thinking to myself then that we were seeing the result of millions and millions of years of movement. 🙂
Oh, wow! How fascinating that must have been! You are correct. As part of the rift valley of Kenya, Lake Naïvasha is the site of a far more ancient (and larger) lake during the Pleistocene era. There’s lots of volcanic and deposition history in the area.
And yes, when you drive from Nairobi to the Escarpment, park and look down, you are looking at the birthplace of Humankind. A unique sight.
Such stunning photos! I was there a year and a half ago – I would have liked to spend more time there. I saw wonderful rock formations….but I have never been able to visualize the geology in the way you describe here. My partner and I have a running joke, which is that we wish we had a pocket geologist. On our road trips he would sit in the back seat of the car, available for questions, otherwise quiet. On walks, we would put him in our pocket. We have so many questions. 🙂 I’ve seen petroglyphs in a few places in Arizona, pretty mysterious, when you wonder about the person who made the drawing….
Thank you! I often wish to have a pocket botanist along my walks. 😆 I’d happily be your silent pocket geologist just to watch you at work on photography.
I miss the American West. I majored in Archaeology in the SW so I’m right there with you. Geology was a loved subject and I collected rocks for a time (before I moved abroad). One of my highlights in Austria was the Natural History Museum and staring/drooling at the massive rock collection.
Your writing does it justice. xo
Ah, a fellow rock lover! I love discovering kindred geology spirits. 🤗 I hadn’t heard about Austria’s NHM but now so want to visit to also drool over the rock collection. Thanks so much for reading and your lovely comment.
Oh, wow!!!! 🙂 🙂 I don’t need to say more.
Especially fascinating for you with your background. For me it looks like one ever changing art piece. The shapes, the lines and colours all mesmerizing.
I too agree Sue! The landscape here is a masterpiece of color and lines. Thanks so much for stopping by to read and chat.