Spirits of ancestral Mesoamerica hover beyond my periphery. Wandering through the Anthropology Museum in Mexico City, I can hear their prayers aspirating among the sacred icons. This is no customary aspic collection of austere antiquity. The exhibits pulse with seismic energy. Xochipilli, patron of art and love in all its sensual facets — his head tilted up, his seated body alert — summons the ghosts of dreamers. An Olmec head, with a frown and piercing gaze, conjures the anima of its slumbering despot. Chacmool, reclining in submission, proffers himself as portal between me and valorous eagle warriors. Even the floor-to-ceiling windows, the marble parquets, the geometric latticework evoke pre-hispanic allusions. Nothing is basic within this complex. Statues, amulets, materials, balusters, and the patio are symbols of a timeless philosophy.
In the courtyard, under the waterfall, I perceive the hollow notes of a Nahuatl melody. The scenery shimmers, shifts as if an invisible curtain were drawn aside. I am no longer seated by a sunlit pond. Instead I am surveying a reed dabbled lake at the dawn of this valley’s civilization.The murmur of elders behind me discuss the viability of crops; children laugh as they gather firewood; the shuffled footsteps of washerwomen approaches. I turn my head and the shroud drops, the setting comes back into focus. There is no laundress, no gamines, no settlers. A young woman shambles towards my bench to rest her weary feet; teenagers giggle as they race through the hall; a tour group argues under the metal umbrella. Discombobulated I catch my breath, a time traveler out of sorts.
This keeps happening to me throughout Mexico City. It is as if the dead have woven themselves into the fabric of contemporary turmoil. The surreal is never too distinct from reality. Phantoms of another epoch walk beside the banker, the student, the artist, the entrepreneur, the mendicant. Capricious gods of yore hold court alongside the Christian trinity.
I make my way through the Metropolitan Cathedral — an extremely Baroque edifice with the stamp of conquistadors in its gilded reredos, its vaulted ceilings, its domed bell towers. Every detail here exclaims its Catholic fealty. The thrum of somber organs reverberates with accusations of sin. Mournful retablos encourage remorse. Apostles bristle with martyrdom alongside Solomonic columns. Yet, its deliberate corpulence cannot trample the soul of the Aztec sanctuary it crushes underneath.
The foundation stones themselves belong to another allegiance: dismantled from Montezuma II’s venerated house of worship, reconfigured into a new myth. As a physical and metaphorical sign of conquest Cortes’ men erected their basilica out of Tenochtitlan’s rubble. However, the slabs have not forgotten. The crypt may shelter disregarded bishops, but the legends of Iztaccíhuatl, Quetzalcoatl, Tonatiuh are not yet buried. Christ is depicted here as savior and also “Lord of the Cacao.” In the crepuscular alcoves denied to the devout, wights susurrate incantations to former deities. Above the funereal hymns I can almost discern their primitive paeans.
I wander over to the archaeological dig of Templo Mayor. This is the center of Mexica power. Seven centuries of religion and politics quiver within the exposed deposits. Now mere decoration, they still possess their authority. A pair of toad sculptures, conduits of rain god Tlaloc, glowers. Carved serpent heads slither along steps in knotted glory. Rust daubed pavers, residue from once brightly painted facades, darken under cloudless skies like ichor. This site vocalizes humanity’s pattern of revolt and subjugation. Each tilted layer uncovers the previous society’s hopes and struggles. The specters here are bold, unapologetic about the interplay of beauty and savagery. They devour the sagas of previous generations, brazenly incorporating them. I try to decipher their words of wisdom. Witnesses to immeasurable evolution, they must know all the answers.
I scrutinize the crumbling terraces, the chiseled parapets, the splintered stucco in search of those answers. How does one achieve potential in the surety of inevitable decay? How does one retain truth while adapting to new dogma? How does one become resilient without sacrificing love? Mexico City has found a way to incorporate growth without falling into the pit of doubt. I scan the excavated Nahuatl shrine, the domed Spanish Palacio, the rectangular twenty-first century mall, amazed to find myself at the crossroads of epochs. An embryonic era rises out of the ashes of extirpation. While other cities flaunt their monotonous development of progressive infrastructure, this metropolis dances with its heritage. While others entomb fate’s assaults under asphalt, Mexico City bares its innards for posterity. It is proud of its variegated messy past.
Running through that chaotic narrative is the convoluted solution: in the cyclical cosmos we perform our singular acts. It is a philosophy that connects with me. Despite failed governments, incessant inequity, destiny’s shifts, life is spent to the fullest. The neighborhoods are replete with colorful art. There is exquisite cuisine fusing tradition and avant-garde technique. There is laughter in the tumultuous avenues, smiles in the hushed alleys. Parent, scholar, virtuoso, and laborer tackle the burden of integrity with unabated determination. I am inspired by their perseverance. I am motivated by Mexico City’s voice. The spirits speak clearly to me. “Here you are,” they say, “who you ought to be. This is your time, make the most of it.”
TRAVEL NOTE:
When the Mexica, a wandering tribe, arrived at the Anáhuac there were already thriving agricultural communities in the area. Conquering them, the Mexica set up an elaborate empire. By the time Hernan Cortes visited Tenochtitlan, the temple complex within the capital, had undergone seven expansive iterations above its original construction. All of these can be seen at Templo Mayor.
If you have experienced Mexico City, let me know your thoughts in the comments below. In what ways can cities better incorporate their history while modernizing?
Bespoke Traveler 
Beautifully written. I like how you described yourself as a “time traveller out of sorts”. That certainly seems to be the case, judging by your experience.
Thanks for sharing these photos. I’ve never been to Mexico City – it looks really intriguing.
Thanks! Happy to hear you enjoyed my story. I found the mixture of Spanish, pre-Columbian, and modern history to be one of the most intriguing parts of Mexico City.
I got lost in your words and images. Excellent post.
Your words fill me with delight. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and read my story.
I really enjoyed reading this blog. It made the pictures come alive.
Thank you so very much! I look forward to diving into your Mexico adventures.
Beautiful pictures and a good travel report! I’ve already been to Mexico. That’s in the meantime already 11 years ago, but we haven’t seen Mexico city. We stayed more at the east side of Mexico, near Cancun. That was our best holiday till now. I would liked to go back, to Mexico, but I’m not sure if I want to go to Mexico city! Is it safe there?
Best regards, Heidi
Thank you Heidi. I too have been to the east side of Mexico – it’s very different there than the capital with lots of beaches and a full-fledged resort life. Mexico City offers incredible history, a vibrant foodie culture, and the chance to experience Mexican art, theatre, and music in its complexity. It would be unfair to compare these two parts because they are so different – culturally, socially – and also because people tend to go to the Riviera Maya for a specific kind of holiday.
As to your safety question, I would say Mexico City is as safe as any other very populous metropolis: New York City, London, Beijing. Being the capital of commerce as well as government, the presence of military police is more prevalent here. As with any place, at home or away, it is always a good idea to practice basic common sense precautions. I never felt any excess or undue concern over safety while in the city. If the country’s past intrigues you and if you are interested in traditional, fusion, or avant-garde Mexican cuisine, art, or architecture, this is the place to explore it! Hope that helps.
Thank you for all this information! For the Mexican cuisine, I would definitely not go to Mexico (I don’t eat spicy food), but for tradition, history, culture, architecture and art (the last one to a lesser extent). So it’s worth considering to go to Mexico again 🙂
Best regards, Heidi
🙂 You are welcome. I hope you enjoy your future visit to Mexico City!
Reblogged this on bazibukatende and commented:
thank you for writing with such exquisite detail. i had a delicious experience reading your post. keep it up.
Thank you so much for your kind words, I am blessed that you enjoyed it.
welcome and thank you for sharing a part of yourself. could you please advice on what to do here: i was checking through “freshly pressed” and accidentally clicked on an icon which caused new posts to appear below an older post. i re-blogged again but the problem persists. how can i fix it so my posts appear in the order in which they should?
Unfortunately I am not familiar with this specific WordPress issue. I would suggest you contact the WordPress engineers through the “Get Help” feature on the platform’s support page: https://en.support.wordpress.com. Hopefully they will be able to resolve your issue. Good luck!
This has made me want to go there. It’s now on my list of must see, gorgeous. Art and culture what’s not to like 😊
😀 Agreed. I think you will love Mexico City because it is such a center of art and music, a place after your own heart! The Palacio de Bellas Artes holds some amazing dance performances which I have really enjoyed seeing.
Mexico City seems like so much fun! I have to visit it soon!
There’s a lot to explore in Mexico City…. 🙂
That museum sounds magnificent. Mexico seems like one of those places where the barrier between dimensions is very thin. So, I can imagine that it is easy to lose yourself in time reverie. I’ve never been to Mexico except for northern Baja (ugh), but your words and photos take me into its fanciful exuberance. Was this a recent trip?
Mexico City was a recent trip. I have been to eastern Mexico in Quintana Roo, but long wanted to explore the heart of the country. It ended up being such a dreamlike experience, which I will treasure.
Incredible shots! Great way to showcase these icons. Need to go back.
Thanks! When were you last in Mexico City?
December 2016
Excellent!
The Anthropology Museum is one of the truly great museums of the world…!
Each time I go to MC, I make a point of going…
My last trip, I think I went 3 times…
I heartily agree! They’ve managed to incorporate so much history with such great architecture and emotion. I can’t get enough of the place.
I visited Mexico City more than three decades ago… so long I almost forgot! But I do remember visiting the Anthropology Museum, your post brings back good memories.
How sweet! The Anthropology Museum is one of the many highlights of Mexico City and I have fallen in love with it.
I have went to Mexico city a lot of times having family there, and what I feel or love about the city is the way that you can see all these modern building but you can still see the culutre and it dosn’t feel like NY or Austin (other big citys I gone) but it feels like Mexico city with the crooded street the crocked building the museums the parks and the churches all make it Mexico City.
You have pinpointed the very thing I love about Mexico City: it revels in its layered past and the locals take such pride in their imperfect and very colorful city. Thanks for sharing your thought and for dropping by to read my story.
I love the narrative in this post. The city seems alive with its own history.
Thank you so much. I feel Mexico City’s history seeping into my bones as I explore and it is such a treat.
“..become resilient without sacrificing love” I love that! Seems like you’ve made the most of it 🙂
(PS: quite an imposing art itself, that pic of Xochipilli)
Thank you! Xochipilli is very imposing, as is appropriate for an Aztec god. 😉 He is part of the varied history which I am learning is such an integral element of Mexico City.
And I love your voice as you describe Mexico City, not just a description of places – you immersed me in the sights and sounds, history and philosophy of the city.
Thank you so much, thrilled you went along for the ride with me! I was really trying to get across this sense of being a time-traveler that I had in Mexico City, of almost being able to experience an older reality.